All we need is a tube of wood filler and an applicator. The applicator can simply be a wooden coffee stir stick, a small spatula, or a chisel blade on the end of an X-Acto knife. We also want a dampened shop rag close by to clean up any extra wood filler we apply in the wrong places.
We apply the first coat of wood filler, making sure we press the paste well into the screw hole as the screw may have been countersunk a bit deeper than we expected. If any screws aren't recessed enough, give them an extra twist with the screwdriver.
You may find that you're "chasing" the wood filler in the plastic squeeze tube and not getting a lot of filler out when you need it. Simply press on the end of the tube with the "heel" of your hand, rather than trying to squeeze the tube.
Let the wood filler set for 24 hours.
You may be now tempted to use some sandpaper to sand the wood filler smooth. This is going to create a bit of unnecessary sawdust so I simply use a damp shop rag (I prefer a J-cloth) and rub the wood filler until it's smooth with the surface of the wood.
I then apply another coat of wood filler. It will dry in 30-45 minutes. I repeat the wet-sanding process once more and apply a 3rd coat of wood filler which will dry in another 30-45 minutes.
At this point, you may notice there are some wood chips sticking up on the edges of the dried wood filler - the chips that resulted when we drilled the screw holes. This is where I take a sanding block (palm sander, orbital sander, etc) and lightly sand the outside of the module frame.
I then wipe the whole frame down with a damp "tack" cloth to remove any sawdust. I'm now ready to apply the first coat of paint.
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